Björn Frantzén has since he started Frantzén/Lindberg 2008 been focused on one thing; being the first restaurant in Sweden with three Michelin stars. Already in 2009 the first star was awarded and the second star followed in 2010. After that Björn Frantzén pushed hard for the third star in the original small venue in Gamla Stan (the Old Town), but in 2016 he announced that the restaurant would be closing, and serious investments would be made into the new venue and a bigge rkitchen in the City center. The ambition was clear, it was about time to get everything in place for a third star. And in 2018, the dream came true. Three Michelin stars to restaurant Frantzén.
Push the button “Restaurant” and then brace yourself for an experience for all senses
The new venue is in a town house from the turn of the 19th century in three stories, where the entire house now has been designed to take you on a culinary journey from the moment you ring the doorbell in front of the massive oak wood door facing Klara Norra Kyrkogata to six hours later when the dinner is over. When entering the foyer one will see the first produce on display in the large glass fridge where meat is hanging to tenderize. Walk through the hallway and into the elevator, push the button “Restaurant” and then brace yourself for an experience for all senses. The experience, and yes this is a true experience and not only a dinner, starts at the top floor where the “living room” is located. When the doors open, you see glass jars in a book shelf with more produce being fermented, pickled and kept for future servings. Walk into the living room with stunning design chairs and couches with a fire place in the middle and an open kitchen in the end, and be lead to the designated and relaxing seat waiting for you, while the champagne wagon is rolled out in front of you and canapes start to arrive from the kitchen.
The modern, and highly refined, version of the Swedish classic potato dish “Råraka” is just divine
The canapes are insanely good, a mini macaron with pumpkin, foie grass, sea buckthorn and roasted oats is not only beautiful, but goes exceptionally well with a glass of champagne from the wagon. The modern, and highly refined, version of the Swedish classic potato dish “Råraka” is just divine. The fried potato, the home made sour cream and vendace roe from Kalix in one bite that one never wants to end. After enjoying the first one or two canapes, one is showed up to the front to view the produce for the evening. One chefs share the story about each produce, and it is a fun, informal and engaging way to bring the guest closer to the dishes ending up on one’s plate. And it also humbles you when you see the transformation from the produce one is shown to the spectacularly beautiful and tasty dishes that ends up on one’s plate.
It is service level perfection
Even though the venue is five times larger than the previous location in Gamla Stan, they have kept the same number of seats per evening namely 23, keeping the atmosphere and ambiance highly intimate. Björn Frantzén with head chef Marcus Jernmark and restaurant manager Carl Frosterud guides you through the well-rehearsed evening in the best possible way, and one of the biggest changes compared to the old venue is the exceptional service level. It is just on point balancing casual, friendly and warm with exclusive, correct and everything you would put into three-star level service. It is service level perfection.
If there is a word far beyond delicious, that would be the word to describe these two dishes
After the canapes in the living room, you are escorted down to the second floor where the open kitchen is located and the main courses are served. You will see an open fire in the middle and buzzling activity from Björn Frantzén and Marcus Jernmark’s team of chefs. Most seats are at the long L-shaped bar in front of the kitchen, which are the best front row sears to the show one could wish for. Here you will be served one of the best dishes of all times and that they have kept from the old venue; the lightly fried langoustine with crispy rice that you dip in the most luscious emulsion of clarified butter infused with ginger. An outstanding dish. The French toast has been on the menu since 2008, served with vacca rossa cheese, a scoop full of truffles and 100-year-old balsamic vinegar. If there is a word far beyond delicious, that would be the word to describe these two dishes.
Have one of each from the dessert wagon
The real sweets are served once you are back in the living room, and just a hint; have one of each from the dessert wagon, you will miss out on something if you don’t. And no matter how full you are, they will go down eventually. The macarons are heavenly, the chocolates to die for but the best is the madeleine cookies served warm in the end. Small cardamom buns with browned butter that are spectacular to a cup of coffee to round things off. But if you feel that you need to stretch your legs, why not step out onto the roof top terrace with a spectacular view overlooking the city and have a cigar, get some fresh air and make some room in your stomach. But whatever you do, don’t feel stressed. Enjoy ever last minute of this insane experience that without a problem can last for six hours.
Enjoy ever last minute of this insane experience
The new venue is just as astonishing, it has elevated a dinner at Frantzén from a spectacular dinner in the old venue to a spectacular experience in the new one. Well worthy of the tree stars that they were rewarded with in 2018. And yes, it is totally worth both the price tag and the stress of hovering the mouse over the booking site at 10 CET on the first of each month to try to get one of the highly sought after tables. It is a world class experience in everything from the food, service and the wines. Simply put, it is spectacular.