Flickan

Roller coaster fine dining

Feb 25th, 2018

Restaurang Flickan is the latest addition to Daniel Crespi’s gastronomical block in Gamla Stan (Old Town) called Leijontornet. Here he hosts the ever so lovely bistro Burgundy, the lovely bar Tweed, the restaurant Pubologi and then the small and intimate omakase restaurant Flickan where some of the most magical cooking in the block happens. Walk through the hotel lobby leading into the spirited atmosphere in Burgundy Bistro and follow the sign on the wall that points to a door in the back with the small text on the window, Flickan.

It is a fun and playful take on a fine dining menu where the level of cooking is high throughout the 12-course menu

When opening the door, you will be greeted and lead to one of the sixteen seats in Flickan. The heart of the restaurant is the open kitchen, a couple of bar stools and two tables. It is small and intimate. Or kitchen might be an overstatement, most of the cooking is on normal four burner stove, an actual burner and of course a sous vide. But what the talented team of chefs produce given these rather scarce conditions is quite spectacular, it is a fun and playful take on a fine dining menu where the level of cooking is high throughout the 12-course menu. The presentation of the menu is done in the same way as Gaggan Anand in Bangkok, with emoji’s indicating the produce but at Flickan there is also a flag to symbolize the international take on each produce. For instance, an octopus emoji is paired with a Spanish flag, and what ends up on the plate is a lovely Swedish octopus with a sofrito. And sometime there are just two flags, but that does not make it easier to guess what will end up on the plate.

But oh, what a glorious heritage, the quality of the lardo and prosciutto is nothing sheer of spectacular

The only small heritage still left from when the restaurant had more focus on meat, under the name Omakase Köttslöjd (literally translated into Omakase Meat Handicraft), is one serving of their own made charcuteries. But oh, what a glorious heritage, the quality of the lardo and prosciutto is nothing sheer of spectacular. That is the second serving, and the first is a lovely oyster. The third is the aforementioned octopus with a small crisp with a deconstructed version of a falafel with a hummus and a crisp. Lovely servings, and a simple and playful start to an evening. These first servings are close to snack servings, and continue with two more. The tempo is quite high, without being stressed with a very personal service from the chefs and sommelier in the restaurant. The music is playful and upbeat, and increases in tempo and volume as the dinner progresses. 90s hip hop is mixed with disco tunes and some oldies but goldies. All in all, the music is as playful and personal as the cooking.

he music is playful and upbeat, and increases in tempo and volume as the dinner progresses

Half way through the menu the tempo drops a bit, and the courses become a bit bigger. The South Korean bao is served with choucroute from Rhône-Alpes, and lovely paired with a glass of Ovum “Big Salt” from Josh House in Oregon. A big and bold Malbec is paired with the pork serving, and the intensity of both the flavors and the music continues to increase. This is a truly fun and playful evening, and lovely wines from Daniel Crespi’s never ending wine cellar is paired with food that is technically extremely well executed. The only down side is probably the limitations from the kitchen in itself; there is simply not enough space or cooking tools to have all the things the chefs would probably like to have. And that results in sous vide cooked fish that tastes, well like every piece of sous vide cooked fish there is. But that is the one and only downside on the menu, it ends on a high note with a dessert with Italian meringue, chocolate, cookie crumble and a very sweet wine perfectly paired to the powerful chocolate dessert that is an elevated version of a Ben & Jerrys ice cream with extra everything.

An elevated version of a Ben & Jerrys ice cream with extra everything

And what more to say, it is a lovely and fun evening you are embarking on at Flickan. And chef Emma Shield was awarded with White Guides Rising Star in 2018, an award given to a chef that shows potential to reach national and international fame for their gastronomical qualities. And even is she would not reach it herself, Restaurang Flickan is close to achieving it already. This is a lovely place that you want to go back to, again and again.
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